.. Cigarette smoke wafted its way through the carriage. A middle-aged Viet in high-riding blue jeans, a white “same same” t-shirt and shiny leather shoes poked his head into the space between the cars, coffin nail dangling from his lips.Disinterested rail employees in blue uniforms sold snacks and water, and without any hint of irony, a hammer and sickle were embroidered on their carts’ moneybags.One train employee sat in the seat next to me for a time, watching a historical drama set in Nguyen Dynasty, on his phone, without earphones... The scenic surroundings gave way to urban sprawl as the train arrived in Hue city.Seeing the red star flags, hammer and sickles, portraits of “Uncle Ho” everywhere had me thinking communism, thinking in confabulations, perhaps due to my indoctrination as a child in the US school system of the 1980s.But, in fact, in 2020, I’d discovered through observation, conversations with locals and browsing online that Vietnam is probably the most capitalist place. She was wearing jodhpurs and as we came up to the stable yard it occurred to me she rode horses. “Do you ride much Iris?” I asked peering into the stable.“Only a hack round the lanes when the weather’s OK; how about yourself?”“Well, I sometimes get my bike out on a fine day.” I quipped, “How many horses are there?” I inquired.Iris laughed, “Only my gelding now, he’s grazing in the meadow: several were stabled here before but with the price of hay in the winter...”“Is your husband still alive Iris?” I asked cautiously.There was an uncomfortable silence before she answered. “Ronald was lost at sea over six months ago Margo.” She replied evenly.“I’m so sorry.” I mumbled awkwardly, my blunder causing me to blush.Iris slid her hand through my arm. It’s OK Margo ... really, she said simply, “Come on! Lets show you the kitchen garden.”Later, in the cool of the library we relaxed into deep cushioned armchairs and with each of us holding a generous glass of brandy Iris took a deep sigh and.
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