"These are the rules for the next ten days," said Delis, as she stoodback examining me. "You will be working in a factory with 35 otherwomen. These women are between the ages of 14 and 25. Not only have theynever seen a Westerner before, but they have all come from villageswhere the men are taken into the army very early and boys are removed.They probably have never seen men before, certainly not what you will bedisplaying."She gave me another injection. "This is a Chinese version of viagra. Inabout 15 minutes you will have the hardest erection which you will beunable to do anything about for 24 hours. That means you won't be ableto urinate. You will have one hour each morning to wash, it had been afew weeks now since all the hormones preventing any facial growth. Iexpect you be fully dressed, as you are now by 7:00 AM. You will beallowed a bowl of rice and tea and then you will be taken to thefactory, locked to the work bench where I expect you to help our outputof blouses for the. Progress is slow and he’s painfully aware of how far he’s let himself go over the years. Slowly, so very very slowly he learns how to climb again. How to think like a climber, how to turn off his mind and exist in the moment. It doesn’t happen often at first. Winter comes and for the first time in more than twenty years he plants an axe into ice. Instantly he’s hooked again. He and Robert make a good team, Robert is by far the stronger climber and confident almost to the point of recklessness. He jokes that Robert doesn’t know the meaning of fear – or any other word with more than three letters. He on the other hand, has a knack for survival and a talent for rope tricks. In the course of two failed attempts on Tower Ridge and the ensuing epic retreats he learns that he can supress panic in a difficult situation and that he and Robert can depend on each other. They evolve a system whereby Robert climbs the hard pitches and when things go pear shaped he does the scary abseils. He loves.
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